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Basic principles of lip pigment blending.

In this article, we break down the basic lip pigment blending tips.
Natasha Koldomova
Founder of the international company iColor
In previous article we talked about basic principles of mixing eyebrow pigments. You can read the article here.

Rule #1 don’t mix pigments from different brands.

One of the most important rules when working with lip pigments is not to mix pigments from different brands. Each brand creates its own products with a specific chemical formula, and it is not safe to tamper with it. It is not safe to tamper with it: mixing pigments can lead to unpredictable color changes, the appearance of undesirable shades (for example, "salmon" or "dirty" color) and deterioration of the quality of work after a while. color) and deterioration in the quality of the work over time. This has a negative impact on the client’s experience, who, once disappointed with the result, is unlikely to return or want to repeat the procedure. By working quality, we maintain client confidence in permanent makeup and strengthen the positive reputation of the procedure.

Rule #2 — form a rich palette of shades from one brand.

Every craftsman should have a good palette,
which we have categorized:

1. Basic Nude Color:
  • Warm (e.g. Nude Pink);
  • Saturated (e.g. Iconic Nude).
2. Pink shades:
  • Saturated Pink (e.g., Raspberry);
  • Soft pink (e.g. Berry or Rose).
3. Warm, soft shades that balance out cool lip tones and help create soft peachy tones. For example:
  • Lip Kiss, Corallien.
4. Pigments that add a "highlight" are deeper, more expressive colors such as:
  • Burgundy — a deep, soft red;
  • Truffle — a red-brown from the areola palette;
  • Soft Tan — a natural powdery pink;
  • Antique Red — warm red-brown shade, indispensable for neutralizing blue tones and working with ageing lips, as well as for filling voids.

Rule #3 — Create neutral shades.

To achieve a neutral shade, it is important to mix cool and warm tones. When the choice of shade is questionable, it is optimal to use a color that is neutral in temperature. For example, the mix of Berry and Lip Kiss gives a neutral, medium-saturated pink-peach shade, which often serves as a basis for correction in the second procedure, when the color can be slightly "cooled down" or, on the contrary, added to the heat.
can be slightly cooled down or warmed up.

Rule #4 — Nude shades are not diluted.

Only bright pigments such as Raspberry, Burgundy and their mixes should be diluted. Nudes shades lose saturation and become barely recognizable when diluted, so it’s important to work with them in their original concentration.

Rule #5: — Work with age-appropriate lips.

When choosing a pigment for ageing lips, do not only focus on warm shades. The main reference point is the natural color of the lip mucosa. If the mucosa is very small and the peristomal area is predominant, use a pigment that matches the shade of the brightest part of the lips. This approach will help to achieve the most natural and aesthetic result, that is age-appropriate. By following these rules, you will be able to predict the behavior of pigments and obtain long-lasting, beautiful shades for any type of lips and client.
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