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Mistakes in permanent lip makeup

Interview with Olga Ivanova
Natasha Koldomova
founder of the international company iColor
Olga Ivanova
permanent makeup trainer, 11-time champion and creator of the Lashes Lips technique
Hello everyone, this is IColor PMU!

Today, my guest is the talented and charming Olga Ivanova from Novorossiysk. Olga recently spoke at IColor Day, where she discussed unusual mixes for lips — these are her proprietary working methods.

Today we're going to talk about lips, so this article will be relevant for masters who want to delve deeper into this area and enhance their skills.
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Ольга:
Hello, my name is Olga Ivanova. I am an 11-time champion winner and a two-time grand prix holder. I have also developed my own proprietary technique for working with lips — Lashes Lips, which involves a non-traumatic, productive way of introducing pigments into the lip skin.
Natalya:
Olga actively works with the lip area — if you visit her Instagram, you can see many works with lips. Olga, why does this particular area inspire you?
Ольга:
I like working with lips because I love transforming their shape. It's a field for creativity — I can show the client how their lips will transform beyond recognition.

My specialties are the lifting effect and my own vision of color. When I see a client, I immediately understand what I want to see as the result on their lips.
Natalya:
How do you choose the shade at the beginning of your work? Do you rely on the client's request, or do clients trust your choice?
Ольга:
For the past two years, clients have almost completely trusted me with the choice of color. I offer them several options and describe the features of each. Often, I prefer colors that will be comfortable 24/7.
Natalya:
By the way, about 24/7: clients most often choose everyday shades, but masters prefer brighter pigments. This is because they are easier to use for a lipstick-like saturation and they look more impressive in photos.

For example, they take one of our bright shades, RASPBERRY, and apply it densely. There's also a common mix of ICONIC NUDE and RASPBERRY — it's not for everyone, it's bright and dense. I think it's not an everyday story.

Maybe you can recommend fail-safe mixes for everyday use that clients will like?
Ольга:
First, I recommend looking at which shades of lipsticks and pencils are currently popular. We look at decorative cosmetics on websites, social networks of clients of different ages. We make a conclusion — which shades are popular among a certain category.

You can visit makeup artists to train your eye and see which shades they use. Be careful here: most shades are too decorative for us, some have effects that we cannot replicate on the lips. Train your eye — this way you'll understand what suits each type.
Natalya:
What three colors would you recommend for a basic palette for masters?
Ольга:
That would be ICONIC NUDE, ANTIQUE RED, and the third is hard to choose between RASPBERRY and WATERMELON. Lately, WATERMELON is my big love, I'm ready to work with it 24/7.
Natalya:
We have an IColor chat where masters often post their work before and after, with and without mistakes. I want us to analyze a few works together, discuss their correctness, and give comments.
Ольга:
Well, let's get started! The first lips — beautiful work, good color placement. I would make small changes to the Cupid's bow, the shade matches the skin tone, granules are covered — all is well.

The second work — I have no complaints about the shade choice. I do have complaints about the construction of the shape, the trauma of the stroke, the unevenness, and the unproductiveness of the color saturation.

I recommend the master to work on productivity and hand positioning — the hand is positioned incorrectly. It gives an unproductive stroke, the master works with the whole hand, not with the fingers.

The third work — it's the source of my dreams. I've been trying to find a model with such lips for several years.
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Natalya:
When you do neutralization on a man, pigmentation is still visible. With women, makeup is assumed, but with men, dark spots are still visible.
Olga:
When we work with pigmentation, we don't make a clear shape. Working with these lips will take several procedures: 1st procedure — a quick pass with a triple needle. I have two options for colors — 1 is safer: CORALLIEN. The 2nd option — classic red, NEGLIGEE
white, 1-2 passes without a clear shape along the pigmentation border.

Then we meet for correction — we see how it has healed, add some shades. We take the Itten circle and start neutralizing.
Natalya:
In Latvia, at the academy, we had many procedures for neutralizing dark pigmentation. People came for training, and everyone had very soft lips. We did a neutralization procedure on a woman. We worked with a powerful corrector PEACH, which is not dense; it contains white and orange. But after the work, it feels like there's nothing there — everything sinks in like into a puff.

After some time, she came for a correction, and we saw that we had neutralized that area perfectly. With such lips, we worked with PEACH and NUDE, just PEACH, CORALLIEN.
Olga:
For some reason, no one says that if the lips darken after the procedure — it's normal. It's one of the stages of healing — after which the desired color will emerge.

The next work (4) — let's start with the shape. Here we have the makings of great shape formation, the master feels the proportions. There is something to work on, but it's not all as bad as it might seem at first glance. I would recommend the author of the work to practice drawing shapes.

You can practice on relatives, clients, but it is necessary to photograph and analyze mistakes in the photos.
For a beginner master, the color saturation of the lower lip is not bad. It is necessary to make more movements and not be afraid to stretch the lips. The main thing is not to stretch them over the teeth, otherwise, it will be painful, unattractive, and traumatic.

But there are problems with the color saturation of the upper lip because the epidermis is stained. Pigment accidentally got somewhere, so don't expect beautiful and neat healing. I recommend practicing color saturation.

It is also unclear here, is there a reaction to anesthesia in the photo or is the color saturation so traumatic? If it's color saturation, isolate yourself with latex until we find you! If it's just a reaction to anesthesia, use less anesthesia and don't harden the lips.

The next work (5) — insanely beautiful color saturation and color, all dense. I don't like the arch here, it's even, but it looks disharmonious — too deep a recession for such lush shape formation.

I have nothing to complain about the lower lip.
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Natalya:
Our audience is diverse: there are masters with a lot of experience, and there are beginners. A question arose about lip swelling: when working with lips, especially those with filler — they swell, is this considered normal or is the master working incorrectly with the lips?
Olga:
Swelling is our body's reaction to injury. We touch a person with a needle for an extended period — it's normal for swelling to occur, but it's important to differentiate between types of swelling.

If it's just a slight puffiness, then all is well, but if the swelling is accompanied by an abundant exudation of serous fluid and blood dew — that's not normal.

Even vascular and empty lips can be colored without significant swelling. Filler attracts moisture, but that doesn't mean we'll get large swellings. If we make a productive stroke, color quickly, and do not inflict unnecessary trauma — all will be well.

For dessert, we have an interesting case. If we encounter such lips in our office, we must take 'before' and 'after' photos. This is an excellent client case that will showcase you as a professional in the eyes of clients.

Here I would consider several options: FUCHSIA + NEGLIGEE, or FUCHSIA + NUDE. Also, you can add a bit of RASPBERRY to the mix to give the color some vibrancy. Or take RASPBERRY + NUDE and RASPBERRY + NEGLIGEE. When working with such lips, it's important to understand that you should not expect a clear contour; pigmentation won't allow it.

My choice leans towards RASPBERRY + NUDE, there are Fordyce spots here, which are quite different in color, and the combo of pigments would cover this nuance. I would spot add my personal favorite — ANTIQUE RED — it beautifully covers herpes scars and hides Fordyce spots.
On such lips, we don't fuss about the contour because it won't be visible.

Many make a mistake: once they draw the contour — it doesn't appear, twice they draw the contour — it doesn't appear, and after healing, you get a thick 'grandmotherly' contour.

The only option to draw the contour here with ANTIQUE RED is to apply anesthesia and wait a little longer on the contour.
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Natalya:
For dessert, we have a photo (7) with very juicy and attractive lips. Let's discuss how we could work on this even better?
Olga:
It seems to me that there is already permanent makeup on these lips. If that's the case — the color is beautiful, but it's a bit too dense on the lower lip. If there's no old permanent makeup here, I would work with WATERMELON — it would nicely enliven the lips and soften any paleness. As for the contour, it would integrate perfectly to refine the lips. I wish you more clients with such lips!
Natalya:
I hope you enjoyed our mini online course on lips!

We are very much looking forward to your feedback: what do you think about it, what ideas do you have for the next topics or for the next guests in our IColor PMU studio. We would be happy to invite the person you want to see.

Olga, thank you so much for the work analysis!

If you found your work here, please don't be offended, we took them randomly from the IColor chat. You often ask for advice and evaluation of work, so I think it was useful for you.
Olga:
If anyone has questions about the analyses, or if you recognized your work among them — feel free to write in the chat, or to me personally, and I will give you a more detailed consultation on your work.
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